
This post is long overdue! I think I said I was going to discuss win photos in part two, but I’m going to do that in part three instead. Gaiting is the most important thing you do when you show dogs, so we might as well get right into it. These tips are specific to Siberians, but they apply to a lot of other breeds as well.
- Choose the right collar and lead for your dog. Make sure the length of each is appropriate and comfortable. If the dog is new to showing or is a puppy, you will want a shorter collar to have more control over the dog. In that case, you should only see an inch or so of clearance if you pull the collar up above the dog’s head. You will want to make sure the collar is on correctly. You can make a P shape with the collar and slip it over the head. I prefer somewhere around a 40-inch lead with all my dogs, but if you are a beginner, you can use closer to 30 inches so that you are not having to roll up so much lead. A simple leather lead (not braided kangaroo) provides good durability and grip/comfort. Braided kangaroo is my favorite, but they are more expensive and don’t always last. Personally, I like to use choke chains on my dogs, especially puppies. You don’t actually choke the dogs with them — I find it easier to communicate with my dogs using a chain. I can use smaller corrections, and they will not continue to pull. Whereas with nylon, they will pull until they are actually choking themselves.
- Be very stingy with how much lead you give a puppy or new show dog. Because of the extra length in the choke collar, you will want to hold the lead right at the connection of the collar to the lead. The shorter the lead, the more control you have over the dog. When you have a dog that is new to showing, they need to earn the right to have a longer lead. Otherwise, hold that lead as short as possible. Remember: when you control the head of the dog, you control his body too. Hold your hand close to the dog’s jaw. Keep a little bit of tension in the lead, and don’t let the dog’s head drop below their topline. Don’t put your hand ahead of the dog, and try not to move ahead of the dog either.
- Teach the dog to move out in a circle using bait. Practice lots before you go in an actual show ring. I can teach my 2 month old puppies to start moving with me in a circle within a couple of sessions. I use my body to block them and keep them moving in a circle. When they are starting out, I make sure never to turn my head towards them, but I keep looking at them out the corner of my eye. The second they put their heads straight instead of looking at me, I shove bait in their mouth and praise them excitedly. When you treat them, make sure that your hand is leading them in the direction of the circle, so their head stays straight. If that’s too hard for you, you can also toss bait towards the inside of the circle. The #1 goal is to teach the dog to never look at you.
- Take your time. When the judge tells you to go around, do not rush. Take your time, adjust the collar on the dog, and give the collar a few light tugs until the dog is paying attention and not pulling at the collar. If the dog keeps pulling, give a stronger correction and then start jogging very, very slowly. If they still pull, just try your best to keep your hand steady and keep constant pressure against their pull. It’s not ideal if they pull, but as long as they are gaiting properly and not fighting you too much, it’s ok. If your dog likes to look at you while moving, then it’s important that you never look at the dog until they break that habit. If your dog ignores you while gaiting, then you should look at them periodically to see what they are doing, especially if you can’t tell just by feel. The down and back is also a good time to look, as long as you are good at going in a straight line.
- Take big steps. It can be hard as a newbie to take big steps while keeping your hand steady, so definitely prioritize the hand over the big steps. Once you have your hand steady, think big, lofty strides. The more air time you get, the better your dog will move out. They will try to match your strides. You want them to lengthen their strides, not move their legs faster. If you watch a professional gait a dog next to an owner-handler, the biggest difference is that the professional runs more naturally, bouncing up and down with each stride, while the owner-handler stays low to the ground and takes small, hurried steps. Some dogs cannot handle this extra energy from its handler, though. If you have a bouncy puppy, you will need to stay more still while moving. So this is a more advanced move, or something that you can do if your dog lacks energy while moving.
- Move slower on the down and back. Again, take your time and make a big circle before starting the down and back. Try to position yourself so that your dog’s butt is right in front of the judge when you start. And always look at the corner before you start moving so that you can stay in a straight line. Take a few steps at a walk first and then think steady, slow jog. Keep checking on your dog to make sure they are moving in a straight line. If you can’t tell by looking, have someone watch and tell you so that you can learn when they are straight or not. Slow down well before you get to the corner and walk a few steps. Then turn around slowly. You can give the dog another tug on the collar here to get their attention. It’s my personal pet peeve when handlers put up their hands in a stop gesture, because I feel like it ruins the flow of the down and back. If you need to, just stop and pause for a bit, no need to gesture. Then look at the judge’s shoes and make a straight line back to them. Again, slow down well in advance so you have room to do a free stack without running the judge over. Only if your dog is very advanced with exceptional movement or if you are trying to hide a movement flaw, should you try to perform the down and back at the same speed as the go around.
- Leave adequate distance between your dog and the dog in front of you. If the judge has you move your dog together with the group, and you are not first, make sure you leave a good distance. It’s better to leave too much distance than too little. Your dog will likely be more excited when moving as a group, so be prepared for them to break into a lope. When that happens, just slow them down a bit and keep going. Whatever you do, don’t run into the dog in front of you.
- Try to keep your elbow bent at around 90 degrees, and keep your elbow at your side, not in front of your body. This is mostly an aesthetic tip and for more advanced teams. If your dog can’t handle that amount of lead, of course do what you need to do to keep your dog looking their best. Ultimately, your dog matters more than you!
- Stand up straight, roll your shoulders back, and look confident. No matter what dog you are showing, show that dog like he just won a Best In Show the day before. Fake it until you make it, and do whatever you need to do so that you can feel more confident in your dog. Whether that is taking handling classes, grooming him to perfection, or investing in a custom kangaroo lead.
- Laugh off any puppy or newbie antics and ignore grumpy judges. No matter how experienced you are, your puppy might start play bowing, spinning, and jumping in the ring. That is not a big deal at all. This is a conformation show, not an obedience trial. If you are the only one in your class, which puppies often are, just redo your go around. A happy, excited puppy is way better than one that is slinking around or refusing to go due to anxiety. Don’t be embarrassed if your puppy potties in the ring either. Much less embarrassing than if it were an adult dog, and that happens to professionals too. If you get a grumpy judge, don’t take it personally. Some of the grumpiest judges I’ve had ended up giving me the win, so it has nothing to do with whether they like your dog!

Those are the important things. Some other things you can play around with are the ideal speed at which to move your dog. That is dependent on the dog and the breed. In Siberians, we are supposed to move them at a moderate speed and on a loose lead, but “moderate” can mean 8 mph when your dog can gait easily at 16 mph! Generally, judges will want to see them at near-maximum reach and drive, which for a ground-covering dog, means you have to move them decently fast. Remember, your goal is for the dog to take the biggest steps they can, not necessarily move as fast as they can. A loose lead is nice in theory, but if you have it completely loose, you are unable to communicate with the dog. The lead is your only means of communication when gaiting. When it’s too loose, you can’t pick up the dog’s head if they sniff grass, can’t slow them down if they start galloping, etc.
Let me know in the comments if I missed anything or if you have questions about anything!









